Imagine a craft
beer event that doesn’t particularly celebrate hoppy beers. Then imagine none
of the craft beer lovers in attendance complaining even a little bit.
At Rate Beer’s
second annual Ales for Autism: Beauty From a Barrel benefit on Nov. 10 at SPUR,
hops took a back seat to bugs, specifically the beneficial microorganisms that
“infect” beers and give them their funky, sourish flavor.
New brewery Sante
Adairius of Capitola continued to impress, with two of its American “wild”
ales: Cask 200 and West Ashley, which won the drinkers poll for best beer of
the event. Despite very limited production, Sante Adairius is quickly earning a
word of mouth reputation for well-balanced funky beers.
Co-owner and brewer Tim
Clifford modestly aspires to claim a place on the bottom rung of the American
wild ale category pioneered by the likes of Russian River Brewing, The Lost
Abbey and the Bruery, among others. He’s already well on his way.
From the East Bay,
the eagerly anticipated Rare Barrel served notice that it, too, is a funky
brewery to be reckoned with. Shadow of Her Eyes (third place) and SKUs Me whet
our beer appetites for the grand opening in Berkeley, which should be before
the end of the year.
Enigmatic Moonlight
Brewing of Santa Rosa chimed in with a hop-less beer, but it wasn’t a “sour.”
Instead, Moonlight’s Previous Life Herbal Ale had a more herbaceous quality. It
was a pleasant sipper and not surprisingly a change of pace from an iconoclastic
brewer.
Why would a Pasadena
brewer haul four kegs of beer all the way to San Francisco? According to
Craftsman Brewing founder and owner Mark Jilg, sour beers don’t yet get much
love in LA, at least not yet. This was good news for us beer lovers because
Craftsman poured some of the cleanest, tastiest beers of the night: Angelino
Weiss, Cave Art, Honesty Ale and Cirrus.
My personal favorite, honestly, was
Craftsman’s Honesty Ale, a delicious American wild ale. Angelino was a
puckerish take on the Berliner Weissbier style. LA’s loss was clearly our gain.
Making an even
longer trek was Wicked Weed of Asheville, N.C., which graced the event with
bottles of its delicious Serenity, a 100% brettanomyces farmhouse-style
fermented ale, as well as a cocktail tribute beer. Wicked Weed’s Old Fashion is
brewed with sweet cherries and orange zest, then aged for four months in a
whiskey barrel.
Perhaps the most
sought after (and limited) beer of the evening came from rapidly rising Prairie
Ales of Tulsa, Okla. For the Ales for Autism event, Prairie brought bottles of
its imperial stout, Bomb. This version, aged in rum barrels, earned the name Prairie
Pirate Bomb. Along with the rum, you can taste espresso, chocolate, vanilla
beans and chile peppers.
Rate Beer’s event
was indicative of recent Bay Area beer trends toward the sorts of flavors—puckerish
sour, dried fruit, booze and hints of who knows what—that are imparted by bugs
and barrels rather than hops. That’s not to say that hops are all of a sudden
passé in beer, but just that the vast range of this versatile beverage
continues to expand at the hands of today’s beer-making wizards.
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