The San Mateo coastside has long been a haven for quirky iconoclasts not easily intimidated or influenced by convention. Prohibition brought out the bootleggers in the 1920s, when high-speed motorboats and skiffs would fetch cases of liquor from Canadian rumrunners waiting three miles offshore. They’d sequester their booty of 100-proof Canadian Club in basement hiding places for distribution in San Francisco.
Many years later, Pete Douglas christened his El Granada beach house The Bach Dancing and Dynamite Society, following a particularly raucous and explosive celebration at the beach. Douglas’ beach house now hosts intimate concerts featuring outstanding musicians on Sunday afternoons. More recently, the best-known expression of coastside personality has been the big wave surfing competition at Mavericks at Pillar Point, where swells as tall as four-story buildings threaten to crush wave-skimming specks propelled by a heady blend of moxie and ability, mingled with a tinge of madness.
Cameron’s Restaurant and Inn, a British-style pub in Half Moon Bay, fits right in. You know you’ve found owner Cameron Palmer’s somewhat daft tribute to the sceptered isle when you spot a red double-decker bus parked in a lot on the ocean side of Highway 1 in Half Moon Bay.
After you walk past the stocks (fortunately not in working order) and the red telephone box (no Doctor Who in sight), you find yourself inside a suitably dark and divey pub. Once your eyes adjust to the dim light, the owner’s whimsical sense of kitschy style becomes even more apparent. Decades before beer marketers got wise to a house built of Bud Lite tins, the 10-year-old Cameron Palmer had embarked upon his life’s quest of collecting all the cool beer cans he could find. The fruit of his labor –banished from the bedroom for the sake of domestic harmony – comprises a considerable portion of the pub’s wall space. (The publican has thoughtfully left a bit of shelf room for new contributions if they pass muster.)
Cameron’s seems determined to provide something for everybody. Several televisions scattered around the pub make it a suitable sports bar, and for more energetic patrons, a game room features shuffleboard, darts, foosball and pinball. A faux fireplace imparts the illusion of warmth. The establishment also functions as a general store for Brits, expats and anglophiles yearning for such English delicacies as HP Sauce and Marmite; Heinz canned goods (salad cream, baked beans, cucumber sandwich spread and puddings); marrowfat processed peas; Pataks sauces and pastes; and Sharwoods papadoms.
The “inn” part of the “Cameron’s Restaurant and Inn” equation refers to three “bed and beverage” rooms located above the pub and restaurant.
The fun continues outside, starting with the two buses. One is for kids to idle away their time while the adults indulge themselves in the pub; the other caters to smokers. “The World’s Only Double Decker Smoking Bus” is Palmer’s rejoinder to the county’s ban on smoking in restaurants and bars, and takes advantage of the statutory loophole that makes parking lots and vehicles fair game for lighting up a stogie or a fag. Drinkers are free to carry their pints aboard the stationary bus as they satisfy their craving for nicotine with their drinks. Just a few yards away is “Cameron’s Park,” a spacious beer garden, complete with a stage and a volleyball court, suitable for private parties. (It could stand a little sprucing up for summer.)
As befits an English-style public house, Cameron’s devotes several taps to British brews like Fullers, Newcastle and Bass, as well as some standout American versions of iconic British ale styles, including Bear Republic’s Racer 5 IPA and Deschutes Mirror Pond American Pale Ale and Obsidian Stout (a nice alternative to Boddington’s or Guinness). The menu tilts toward standard pub grub, with some predictable British touches: fish and chips, bangers and mash, Scottish beef pie, burgers, chili and the occasional special, like baby back ribs (pictured): half a slab of juicy pork ribs with coleslaw, chili, garlic bread and a little extra earthy barbecue sauce on the side (a bargain at $9.95).
Enjoying a pint of English ale with somewhat greasy food is a time-honored pub tradition, and Cameron’s certainly accommodates that course of least resistance. But Cameron’s also has the makings to support more transcultural fare. Pairing pork ribs with the Obsidian Stout, for instance, subtly exposes a palate-pleasing link between a quintessential British beer style and classic American soul food. The slightly burnt caramelized flavors of the toasty, pitch-black stout adroitly balance the earthy sweetness of the barbecue sauce and the smokiness of the meat. It’s the culinary equivalent of the Rolling Stones meeting Howlin’ Wolf.
Cameron’s has a lot going for it, not the least a quixotic publican eager to playfully integrate aspects of British culture into his coastside restaurant. But why stop with traditional British pub grub pairings when with a little more imagination Cameron’s could take advantage of the local culinary bounty and explore fresh combinations? Instead of adhering to the same old beer/food playbook, Cameron’s could advance it.
At the same time, Cameron’s beer should reflect the British tradition of naturally fermented brews hand-pumped from a cask, which has been enjoying a revival in England and the U.S. The British Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) has been advocating a return to cask ales as an alternative to mass-produced lagers since the 1970s. Several brewpubs and pubs in the Bay Area have also taken up the real ale gauntlet, including Magnolia, which brewed a cask-conditioned English bitter for the new Public House at AT&T Park; the Toronado on Haight; and Thirsty Bear in San Francisco, to name a few. Cameron’s, which bills itself as an English-style pub, also belongs on that list.
Cameron’s has a rare opportunity to bring together some of the best of both worlds, and with a little minor tinkering it could become an even better destination for coastside locals and seaside visitors. Half Moon Bay might not be Brighton or the Isle of Wight, but as you sip a cup of Tetley’s Tea or a pint of Bass Pale Ale at Cameron’s, you might find yourself musing about British seaside resorts.
Cameron’s Restaurant & Inn
1410 S Cabrillo Hwy
Half Moon Bay, CA 94019
(650) 726-5705
www.cameronsinn.com
Bach Dancing and Dynamite Society
311 Mirada Rd
Half Moon Bay, CA 94019
(650) 726-4143
www.bachddsoc.org
Gourmet Haus: German beer and hearty fare on the Peninsula
Gourmet Haus Staudt, a chummy, innocuous pub in Redwood City, has received a considerable amount of attention lately, and it hasn’t been for its outstanding selection of German lagers on tap or the homey food that’s on the menu at the end of the week.
In mid-March, an Apple employee, perhaps unaccustomed to the potency of German beer, misplaced a next-generation prototype iPhone at the bar while celebrating his 27th birthday. Weeks later, the test model turned up at technology site Gizmodo, generating a great deal of consternation at Citadel Apple. Gizmodo had paid $5,000 to the guy who ended up with the phone after the Apple engineer left it on a bar stool at Gourmet Haus.
“There was no doubt about it. It was the real thing, so we started to work on documenting it before returning it to Apple,” Gizmodo wrote on its site. At the behest of an apparently apoplectic Apple, police turned up with search warrants at the homes of the Gizmodo editor who had written about the top secret device and the guy who found it, confiscating computers.
Newsmedian Jon Stewart called out Apple, bemoaning that the erstwhile revolutionary company that had once challenged the establishment had itself become “the man,” or as The Daily Show put it, “Appholes.” Stewart shouldn’t have been surprised; Apple has been more paranoid than a roomful of tweakers for quite a while now.*
Unexpected notoriety aside, “Gourmet Haus Staudt: a German Beer Garden” deserves more attention not only from beer lovers on the beer-parched Peninsula, but from aficionados of German beer from all over. Tucked behind a Bavarian gift/bottle shop and deli, the small pub sports some of the best German beer taps in the Bay Area. Gourmet Haus recently featured lagers such as Innstadt Edelsud, Hofbrau Maibock, Konig Pils, Kostritzer Schwarzbier, Spaten Bock and Optimator, Aktien Hell and Bischofhof 1649, as well as the potent Belgian ale Klokke Roeland, the sublime Weheinstaphener Vitus weizenbock and Valley Brewing IPA, for West Coast hop heads. The constantly rotating taps are a testament to the taste of the pub’s beer-loving owner, Volker Staudt.
Volker took over the business from his parents, who nonetheless continue to help prepare the food that’s available Wednesday through Saturday. A recent Saturday brunch featured a hearty Jagerschnitzel -- breaded veal cutlet and mushroom gravy -- with mashed potatoes. Also on the menu were some brats, sandwiches, hotdogs and big, soft pretzels.
The hunter’s schnitzel called for a beer that could stand up to the richness of the brown gravy, like the malty Kostritzer Schwarzbier, a lager that’s dark in appearance yet surprisingly light in flavor. Germans have been enjoying such combinations for nearly 500 years; the first documented mention of Kostritzer Schwarzbier dates back to 1543. Light-colored pilsners didn’t appear until some 300 years later. (Gourmet Haus lists The German Beer Institute's site for more information about everything beer in Germany.)
Gourmet Haus’s food would best be described as hearty and filling rather than gourmet. The schnitzel could have been pounded thinner and the bread crumbs fried a little crispier, for example. But the brown gravy gave the dish a rustic flavor that the Schwarzbier balanced admirably. On a Saturday afternoon, Gourmet Haus is a family-style restaurant with a sun-splashed patio where you can take your 10-year-old for a bite after a soccer game or your parents or grandparents for a simple meal. When food isn’t on offer, Gourmet Haus is a pub: same great beer but without the food.
The gift shop is also worth more than a cursory glance as you enter and leave the pub, not only for its jaunty Bavarian-style hats and HB Munchen Das Boot beer glass, but for its extensive selection of excellent German beers.
*Regardless of how Apple and Gizmodo work out their dispute, the $5,000-richer guy who left the pub with the phone might be guilty of violating an unwritten code of pub ethics.
Among the rules: ladies sit first; don’t talk on your cell phone in a pub; tip your server; if there’s a coaster atop a glass, leave it alone; and if you find something unattended at the bar and cannot immediately find its owner, turn it over to the bartender.
Gourmet Haus Staudt Gifts & Cafe
2615 Broadway St
Redwood City, CA 94063
(650) 364-9232
www.gourmethausstaudt.com
Store hours:
Monday-Friday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m.
Saturday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m.
Beer garden hours
Monday and Tuesday: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m.
Wednesday-Saturday: 10 a.m.-10 p.m.
Lunch
Wednesday-Saturday
11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner
Wednesday-Saturday
5-8 p.m.
In mid-March, an Apple employee, perhaps unaccustomed to the potency of German beer, misplaced a next-generation prototype iPhone at the bar while celebrating his 27th birthday. Weeks later, the test model turned up at technology site Gizmodo, generating a great deal of consternation at Citadel Apple. Gizmodo had paid $5,000 to the guy who ended up with the phone after the Apple engineer left it on a bar stool at Gourmet Haus.
“There was no doubt about it. It was the real thing, so we started to work on documenting it before returning it to Apple,” Gizmodo wrote on its site. At the behest of an apparently apoplectic Apple, police turned up with search warrants at the homes of the Gizmodo editor who had written about the top secret device and the guy who found it, confiscating computers.
Newsmedian Jon Stewart called out Apple, bemoaning that the erstwhile revolutionary company that had once challenged the establishment had itself become “the man,” or as The Daily Show put it, “Appholes.” Stewart shouldn’t have been surprised; Apple has been more paranoid than a roomful of tweakers for quite a while now.*
Unexpected notoriety aside, “Gourmet Haus Staudt: a German Beer Garden” deserves more attention not only from beer lovers on the beer-parched Peninsula, but from aficionados of German beer from all over. Tucked behind a Bavarian gift/bottle shop and deli, the small pub sports some of the best German beer taps in the Bay Area. Gourmet Haus recently featured lagers such as Innstadt Edelsud, Hofbrau Maibock, Konig Pils, Kostritzer Schwarzbier, Spaten Bock and Optimator, Aktien Hell and Bischofhof 1649, as well as the potent Belgian ale Klokke Roeland, the sublime Weheinstaphener Vitus weizenbock and Valley Brewing IPA, for West Coast hop heads. The constantly rotating taps are a testament to the taste of the pub’s beer-loving owner, Volker Staudt.
Volker took over the business from his parents, who nonetheless continue to help prepare the food that’s available Wednesday through Saturday. A recent Saturday brunch featured a hearty Jagerschnitzel -- breaded veal cutlet and mushroom gravy -- with mashed potatoes. Also on the menu were some brats, sandwiches, hotdogs and big, soft pretzels.
The hunter’s schnitzel called for a beer that could stand up to the richness of the brown gravy, like the malty Kostritzer Schwarzbier, a lager that’s dark in appearance yet surprisingly light in flavor. Germans have been enjoying such combinations for nearly 500 years; the first documented mention of Kostritzer Schwarzbier dates back to 1543. Light-colored pilsners didn’t appear until some 300 years later. (Gourmet Haus lists The German Beer Institute's site for more information about everything beer in Germany.)
Gourmet Haus’s food would best be described as hearty and filling rather than gourmet. The schnitzel could have been pounded thinner and the bread crumbs fried a little crispier, for example. But the brown gravy gave the dish a rustic flavor that the Schwarzbier balanced admirably. On a Saturday afternoon, Gourmet Haus is a family-style restaurant with a sun-splashed patio where you can take your 10-year-old for a bite after a soccer game or your parents or grandparents for a simple meal. When food isn’t on offer, Gourmet Haus is a pub: same great beer but without the food.
The gift shop is also worth more than a cursory glance as you enter and leave the pub, not only for its jaunty Bavarian-style hats and HB Munchen Das Boot beer glass, but for its extensive selection of excellent German beers.
*Regardless of how Apple and Gizmodo work out their dispute, the $5,000-richer guy who left the pub with the phone might be guilty of violating an unwritten code of pub ethics.
Among the rules: ladies sit first; don’t talk on your cell phone in a pub; tip your server; if there’s a coaster atop a glass, leave it alone; and if you find something unattended at the bar and cannot immediately find its owner, turn it over to the bartender.
Gourmet Haus Staudt Gifts & Cafe
2615 Broadway St
Redwood City, CA 94063
(650) 364-9232
www.gourmethausstaudt.com
Store hours:
Monday-Friday: 10 a.m.-6 p.m.
Saturday: 9 a.m.-5 p.m.
Beer garden hours
Monday and Tuesday: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m.
Wednesday-Saturday: 10 a.m.-10 p.m.
Lunch
Wednesday-Saturday
11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner
Wednesday-Saturday
5-8 p.m.
Enjoying beer and food in the wine country
If indeed it takes a lot of beer to make wine, then vintners are in luck; there’s some great beer in the wine country. Just as the modern U.S. wine industry has its roots in the 1970s in Sonoma and Napa counties, craft beer companies like Russian River, Bear Republic, Lagunitas and Moonlight are making their mark today, brewing some of the most distinctive and adventurous beers in the state. And while much of the wine industry is sadly becoming a parody of itself, with wine tourism eclipsing wine making, brewers are demonstrating the innovative spirit that’s dwindling among too many wineries.
If you’re visiting Sonoma’s Russian River wineries and find yourself weary of paying for the privilege of tasting 2-ounce pours of overoaked Chardonnays and overpriced, wimpy Pinot Noirs, drop down to Santa Rosa, just a few miles south of Healdsburg for some great beer and good food. And if you want to sample a brew that you’re not familiar with, breweries and pubs are more than happy to pour generous tastes – for free.
Visiting Russian River Brewing is the beer lover’s version of making a pilgrimage to a sacred shrine and should not be missed, but brewpub Third Street Aleworks, just a couple of blocks away, makes some decent beer in its own right and serves good food to go with it. On a recent visit, we tried Third Street’s award-winning Oatmeal Stout and Annadel Pale Ale, pairing the latter with one of the biggest small Caesar salads I’ve ever had (pictured). For the main course, we split a rib eye steak, which was more than enough for two people, accompanied by a Bodega Head IPA. The hoppiness of the beer cut right through the fattiness of the well-seasoned, nicely grilled medium-rare steak.
Many years ago, Sonoma was the largest hop producer in the country. The historic old hop kiln at Hop Kiln Winery is a relic of those bygone days, cut short by disease and mechanization, which resulted in hop growing moving mostly to Oregon and Washington State. Sitting on the Third Street Aleworks patio, with a little breeze, good company, tasty food and refreshing, full-flavored beer, it’s easy to forget that you’re in the wine country. Perhaps as the craft beer industry matures, the “wine country” appellation will once again become more inclusive of the brews that are gradually redefining the area and quenching the thirst of winemakers.
Third Street Aleworks Brewpub
610 3rd St
Santa Rosa, CA 95404
(707) 523-3060
www.thirdstreetaleworks.com
Russian River Brewing Company
725 4th St
Santa Rosa, CA 95404
(707) 545-2337
www.russianriverbrewing.com
Lagunitas Brewing Company
1280 N McDowell Blvd
Petaluma, CA 94954
(707) 769-4495
www.lagunitas.com
Bear Republic Brewing Co.
345 Healdsburg Ave
Healdsburg, CA 95448
(707) 433-2337
www.bearrepublic.com
Hop Kiln Winery
6050 Westside Rd
Healdsburg, CA 95448
(707) 433-6491
www.hopkilnwinery.com
The Beer Revolution has begun in Oakland
In just four years, City Beer has become an indispensable destination not only for San Francisco beer lovers but for beer aficionados from all over. The formula is deceptively simple: well-selected craft beer poured from a handful of rotating taps and bottles sold on the premises (with the option of paying an extra $1 to be consumed on site), plus some simple food to nosh on if you’re hungry. It works because of the dedication and attention to detail of City Beer’s indefatigable owners, Beth and Craig Wathen. Their passion and grace have made their Folsom Street beer store a regular stop for thirsty downtown office workers and visiting beer pilgrims alike. If you can’t find the beer you’re looking for at the diminutive City Beer, you probably won’t find it anywhere else in the Bay Area. City Beer turns 4 years old on May 2. Happy birthday, City Beer, and many happy returns.
Meanwhile, on the other side of the Bay Bridge, there may not be any “there there” (at least according to Gertrude Stein), but there’s quite a bit of beer. One of the more recent additions to the vibrant Oakland beer scene is Beer Revolution, which has the potential to be as good as or (at the risk of heresy) even better than City Beer.
The playbook at Beer Revolution is similar to City Beer’s, except more so: more space, more sun (from a patio in front), more cold cases (no shelves whatsoever) and twice as many taps. As with City Beer, the most important component is the owners, Rebecca and Fraggle, who set the convivial tone with their extensive knowledge and infatuation with great beer. They are tireless in their efforts to find and stock the best beer available.
Beer Revolution is an easy walk from downtown Oakland (and from the 12th Street BART station) and not far from Jack London Square. A roomy, sun-drenched outdoor patio leads to the spacious pub, dominated by a beautiful bar and several cold cases, with the beer organized according to style: stouts, lagers, IPAs, etc. The barrels/tables inside the pub are decorated with beer caps and sometimes-edgy rock music accents the ambience. There’s no food available on site, though you’re welcome to bring it in. Like City Beer, there are no televisions to distract from conversation or the enjoyment of the beer. Although the setup looks simple, it’s obviously been intelligently thought through.
Beer Revolution has only been open for a few months, but it has already attracted a steady clientele of beer lovers, especially in the late afternoon. Even when it’s busy, however, Beer Revolution never feels as cramped as the tiny City Beer.
Just like City Beer, the owners of Beer Revolution are dedicated to helping customers explore the nuances of beer and will happily pour a taste if you’re curious about a particular beer on tap. On a recent visit, Beer Revolution focused on strong dark beers (stout Wednesday), including Allagash Black, Dark Force from HaandBryggeriet in Norway, Lost Abbey Serpent Stout, the delicious anniversary collaboration between Sierra Nevada’s Ken Grossman and Anchor Brewing’s Fritz Maytag, Unibroue’s Chambly Noir and several others. Before diving into the dark side, I needed a lighter beer to quench my thirst after the walk from downtown and settled on a cold bottle of the crisp yet complex Weihenstephenar Vitus, a weizenbock from Brauerei Weihenstephan in Germany. Beer Revolution’s bottle prices are remarkably reasonable, and you don’t need to turn on the taps to enjoy some great beer. But the Allagash Black (pictured) was irresistibly tempting and it poured blackly beautiful, crowned with a foamy white head. It’s a full-flavored beer that expresses its nuances as you sip it. Once some of the darks are cleared out, Beer Revolution will tap a keg of Dogfish Head’s delicious Burton Baton double IPA.
Beer Revolution is a newborn compared with City Beer and it’s still working out a few kinks with distributors and format. Having some rudimentary food available would be a plus, or perhaps forming an alliance with some of the local restaurants to have food delivered. Even in its infancy, however, Beer Revolution is already a worthy destination and a strong addition to any Bay Area beer lover’s itinerary.
Beer Revolution
464 3rd St
Oakland, CA, 94607
510-452-2337
Tues - Thurs:
noon - 9:30 pm
Fri - Sat:
noon - 10:00 pm
Sun:
noon - 9:00 pm
closed Mondays
City Beer
1168 Folsom St
(between Hallam St & Langton St)
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 503-1033
www.citybeerstore.com
Hours:
Tue-Sat Noon to 10pm
Sunday Noon to 6pm
Closed on Monday
Major League food a hit at the Giants new Public House
Denied the joy of celebrating a World Series victory since the team moved to San Francisco from New York in 1958, Giants fans also have suffered through a couple of culinary missteps outside the Giants’ gorgeous China Basin digs. But with the opening of Public House, coinciding with the start of the 2010 season, fans finally have a go-to player at 24 Willie Mays Plaza.
One reason the previous tenant, Acme Chophouse, didn’t make the cut was that its game plan was tilted toward “fine” (whatever that means) sit-down dining. That too-formal strategy was at odds with the casual atmosphere fans expect before a baseball game. Redesigned inside and out, Public House seems to have corrected the stodgy atmosphere and the restaurant/pub now feels more casual, airy and welcoming.
The entrance to the room is dominated by two large bars that face one another. The bar on the left is mostly for mixed drinks and wine while the bar on the right is primarily for beer (the empty beer kegs are a dead giveaway). You can order anything from either bar. However, the two bars form a sort of funnel as you proceed deeper into the room, creating a potential bottleneck for bartenders and wait staff scurrying back and forth (staff refers to it as the “kill zone”). It will be interesting to see what creative steps Public House takes to avoid congestion. Beyond the bar are some tables, a large, open kitchen and the turnstile entrance to AT&T Park. There are also tables in front of the bar in a patio that is designed to be warmed by heaters below the sidewalk rather than space heaters.
The menu features casual, beer-friendly appetizers and pub food like fish and chips, a BLT, a variety of hotdogs and sausages, sliders, a burger and salads. Considering the location and the quality, prices are not outrageous. Unlike in Philly, you will not find Velveeta on Thom’s Cheesesteak Sandwich ($12). Instead, there’s a nice pile of tender, juicy beef, grilled onions and sweet peppers encased in a soft, fresh roll. Although the sandwich is not huge, it’s very tasty and big enough to share as an appetizer. The Mac-n-Cheese appetizer ($5), a holdover from Acme Chophouse, is not to be missed. It arrives piping hot, with melted yellow cheese atop soft, creamy elbow noodles. Matched with an Allagash White or an Ommegang Pale Ale, the cheesesteak and mac ‘n cheese combo is almost as satisfying as a Brian Wilson strikeout to close out a game. Just like with your beer or alcoholic beverage of choice, you can take the food inside the park with you.
Dave McLean, owner of the Magnolia Gastropub and Brewery and The Alembic in the Haight, was on hand to help inaugurate the new baseball season and the new pub with a special beer brewed just for Public House. McLean called his cask-conditioned English ale “Billy Sunday Bitter,” which combines the name of an 19th century baseball player turned evangelist with a Grateful Dead lyric from Ramble on Rose* (if you spend more than 10 minutes at Magnolia, you’re bound to hear some Dead). Billy Sunday the ale is the kind of beer you might have in a cask in England: naturally carbonated and served at cellar temperature (rather than refrigerator cold) so that you can appreciate all the nuances of the beer. It seemed somewhat hoppy for an English style bitter but was delicious nonetheless.
Having Dave McLean and Magnolia onboard, along with beer from several local breweries, helps establish Public House as part of the San Francisco beer scene and might even make China Basin a beer destination beyond the estimable 21st Amendment a couple of blocks away.
The Giants seem finally to have a lineup of decent hitters and one of the best pitching staffs in baseball, playing in one of the most beautiful parks in the country. And for the first time since the park opened in 2000, long-suffering Giants fans have a pub worthy of a pennant contender. Who knows? Maybe this really will be their year after all.
Public House
24 Willie Mays Plaza
San Francisco, CA 94107
415.644.0240
No reservations
*Ramble on Rose
(Words by Robert Hunter; music by Jerry Garcia)
Just like Jack the Ripper
Just like Mojo Hand
Just like Billy Sunday
In a shotgun ragtime band
Just like New York City,
Just like Jericho
Pace the halls and climb the walls
Get out when they blow
One reason the previous tenant, Acme Chophouse, didn’t make the cut was that its game plan was tilted toward “fine” (whatever that means) sit-down dining. That too-formal strategy was at odds with the casual atmosphere fans expect before a baseball game. Redesigned inside and out, Public House seems to have corrected the stodgy atmosphere and the restaurant/pub now feels more casual, airy and welcoming.
The entrance to the room is dominated by two large bars that face one another. The bar on the left is mostly for mixed drinks and wine while the bar on the right is primarily for beer (the empty beer kegs are a dead giveaway). You can order anything from either bar. However, the two bars form a sort of funnel as you proceed deeper into the room, creating a potential bottleneck for bartenders and wait staff scurrying back and forth (staff refers to it as the “kill zone”). It will be interesting to see what creative steps Public House takes to avoid congestion. Beyond the bar are some tables, a large, open kitchen and the turnstile entrance to AT&T Park. There are also tables in front of the bar in a patio that is designed to be warmed by heaters below the sidewalk rather than space heaters.
The menu features casual, beer-friendly appetizers and pub food like fish and chips, a BLT, a variety of hotdogs and sausages, sliders, a burger and salads. Considering the location and the quality, prices are not outrageous. Unlike in Philly, you will not find Velveeta on Thom’s Cheesesteak Sandwich ($12). Instead, there’s a nice pile of tender, juicy beef, grilled onions and sweet peppers encased in a soft, fresh roll. Although the sandwich is not huge, it’s very tasty and big enough to share as an appetizer. The Mac-n-Cheese appetizer ($5), a holdover from Acme Chophouse, is not to be missed. It arrives piping hot, with melted yellow cheese atop soft, creamy elbow noodles. Matched with an Allagash White or an Ommegang Pale Ale, the cheesesteak and mac ‘n cheese combo is almost as satisfying as a Brian Wilson strikeout to close out a game. Just like with your beer or alcoholic beverage of choice, you can take the food inside the park with you.
Dave McLean, owner of the Magnolia Gastropub and Brewery and The Alembic in the Haight, was on hand to help inaugurate the new baseball season and the new pub with a special beer brewed just for Public House. McLean called his cask-conditioned English ale “Billy Sunday Bitter,” which combines the name of an 19th century baseball player turned evangelist with a Grateful Dead lyric from Ramble on Rose* (if you spend more than 10 minutes at Magnolia, you’re bound to hear some Dead). Billy Sunday the ale is the kind of beer you might have in a cask in England: naturally carbonated and served at cellar temperature (rather than refrigerator cold) so that you can appreciate all the nuances of the beer. It seemed somewhat hoppy for an English style bitter but was delicious nonetheless.
Having Dave McLean and Magnolia onboard, along with beer from several local breweries, helps establish Public House as part of the San Francisco beer scene and might even make China Basin a beer destination beyond the estimable 21st Amendment a couple of blocks away.
The Giants seem finally to have a lineup of decent hitters and one of the best pitching staffs in baseball, playing in one of the most beautiful parks in the country. And for the first time since the park opened in 2000, long-suffering Giants fans have a pub worthy of a pennant contender. Who knows? Maybe this really will be their year after all.
Public House
24 Willie Mays Plaza
San Francisco, CA 94107
415.644.0240
No reservations
*Ramble on Rose
(Words by Robert Hunter; music by Jerry Garcia)
Just like Jack the Ripper
Just like Mojo Hand
Just like Billy Sunday
In a shotgun ragtime band
Just like New York City,
Just like Jericho
Pace the halls and climb the walls
Get out when they blow
Public House beer scouting report
You’d have to be a very, very picky drinker not to find an acceptable brew among the new Public House’s two dozen taps and a similar number of bottles. More challenging, perhaps, is figuring out which beers are best at different times of the day and which beers match best with what you plan to eat. Here are a few tips to get you headed in the right direction. Keep in mind that although these beers are well chosen and represent a broad range of styles, many of the taps are likely to rotate over time.
Percentages refer to abv, or alcohol by volume. Remember that a lot of these beers are higher in alcohol than the typical American lagers and should be treated with respect. But high alcohol does not necessary connote more flavor.
Rule of thumb: when the seagulls start swarming as they do in this picture, it's time to think about an Old Rasputin.
Beer keg tapping.
Public House alert:
Magnolia brewer, David McLean, has created a cask ale just for Public House!
We will be tapping it for the first time today, April 7 at 5pm. Come join us to celebrate and try out this exclusive ale paired with some of our favorite menu items.
DAYTIME BEERS
These refreshing, thirst-quenching lagers and ales are relatively low in alcohol and great for warm days in the park. They pair very well with a variety of foods. Try a Belgian pale ale or saison with a burrito or a Cha-Cha Bowl, or even with sushi for instance. If you’re accustomed to drinking American lagers, Trumer Pils is a good first step up, as are wit beers like Allagash from Portland, Maine, and hefeweizens. If you like hoppy beers, go for an IPA or an American pale ale. They’re perfect with grilled sausages and meats.
Taps
Trumer Pils (German-style pilsner) 4.8%
Anchor Steam (California common lager) 4.9%
Ommegang Belgian-style pale ale 6.2%
Valley Brewing London Tavern English Mild 4.8%
Marin Brewing Tiburon Blonde (American blonde ale) 5.1%
Speakeasy Big Daddy (American IPA) 6.5%
Allagash White (Belgian style wit bier) 5.2%
Bear Republic Racer 5 (American IPA) 6.8%
Firestone Walker Pale 31 (American pale ale) 4.6%
Sierra Nevada Cristalweiss (filtered wheat beer) 4.4%
Stella Artois (European pale lager) 5%
Bottles
Saison Dupont (Belgian farmhouse ale) 6.5%
Hopf Helle Weiss (hefeweizen) 5.3%
Schonramer Gold (Marzen/Oktoberfest) 6%
Pinkus Pilsner (pilsner) 5.1%
Georg Schneider Edel-Weisse (hefeweizen) 5.4%
Zatec Pils (Czech pilsner) 4.8%
21st Amendment Watermelon Wheat (fruit flavored wheat beer) 4.9%
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (American pale ale) 5.6%
Pacifico (American adjunct lager) 4.8%
TWILIGHT
The following beers are a little more full-bodied and complex and would work well in the early evening right before the first pitch and during the first half of the game. Some of them are relatively high in alcohol. Pale and red ales stand up well to spicy foods.
Taps
Port Midnight Sessions Lager (dark lager) 5.5%
Guinness Draught (Irish stout) 4.2%
Anchor Liberty Ale (American pale ale) 6%
Moylans Kilt Lifter Scotch Ale (Scotch ale/wee heavy) 8%
Bear Republic Red Rocket Ale (American red ale) 6.8%
Lost Abbey Devotion (Belgian-style pale ale) 6.2%
*Firestone Walker Unfiltered Double Barrel Ale (American pale ale) 5%
*Magnolia (a special cask-conditioned English ale brewed especially for Public House) probably under 5%
*The last two are hand-pumped from a cask the old-fashioned way. They’ll be low in carbonation and not as cold as beer from a regular keg.
Bottles
Orval (Belgian pale ale) 6.9%
Chimay White (Belgian tripel) 8%
Witkap Pater Singel (Belgian pale ale) 6%
Kasteel Geuze Fond 6%
Reutberger Dunkel (Munch dunkel lager) 5.3%
Wiehenstephaner Korbinian (dopplebock) 7.4%
Fullers 1845 (English strong ale) 5.9%
Samuel Smith Nut Brown Ale (English brown ale) 5%
NIGHT
These beers are heavier, darker, higher in alcohol and more suited for the late innings of night games. If you’re driving, be careful with these beers and drink some water afterward.
Taps
North Coast Old Rasputin (imperial stout) 9%
Lost Abbey Judgment Day (quadruppel) 10.5%
Deschutes Black Butte (porter) 5.2%
Stone Sublimely Self-Righteous Ale (American strong ale) 8.7%
Bottles
La Trappe Isid’or (Belgian pale ale) 7.5%
Rochefort 10 (quadruppel) 11.3%
Westmalle Trappist Tripel (Belgian tripel) 9.5%
Trappist Achel 8° Brune (Belgian dubbel) 9.5%
Rodenbach Grand Cru (Flanders red ale) 6%
Public House
24 Willie Mays Plaza
San Francisco, CA 94107
415.644.0240
No reservations
Percentages refer to abv, or alcohol by volume. Remember that a lot of these beers are higher in alcohol than the typical American lagers and should be treated with respect. But high alcohol does not necessary connote more flavor.
Rule of thumb: when the seagulls start swarming as they do in this picture, it's time to think about an Old Rasputin.
Beer keg tapping.
Public House alert:
Magnolia brewer, David McLean, has created a cask ale just for Public House!
We will be tapping it for the first time today, April 7 at 5pm. Come join us to celebrate and try out this exclusive ale paired with some of our favorite menu items.
DAYTIME BEERS
These refreshing, thirst-quenching lagers and ales are relatively low in alcohol and great for warm days in the park. They pair very well with a variety of foods. Try a Belgian pale ale or saison with a burrito or a Cha-Cha Bowl, or even with sushi for instance. If you’re accustomed to drinking American lagers, Trumer Pils is a good first step up, as are wit beers like Allagash from Portland, Maine, and hefeweizens. If you like hoppy beers, go for an IPA or an American pale ale. They’re perfect with grilled sausages and meats.
Taps
Trumer Pils (German-style pilsner) 4.8%
Anchor Steam (California common lager) 4.9%
Ommegang Belgian-style pale ale 6.2%
Valley Brewing London Tavern English Mild 4.8%
Marin Brewing Tiburon Blonde (American blonde ale) 5.1%
Speakeasy Big Daddy (American IPA) 6.5%
Allagash White (Belgian style wit bier) 5.2%
Bear Republic Racer 5 (American IPA) 6.8%
Firestone Walker Pale 31 (American pale ale) 4.6%
Sierra Nevada Cristalweiss (filtered wheat beer) 4.4%
Stella Artois (European pale lager) 5%
Bottles
Saison Dupont (Belgian farmhouse ale) 6.5%
Hopf Helle Weiss (hefeweizen) 5.3%
Schonramer Gold (Marzen/Oktoberfest) 6%
Pinkus Pilsner (pilsner) 5.1%
Georg Schneider Edel-Weisse (hefeweizen) 5.4%
Zatec Pils (Czech pilsner) 4.8%
21st Amendment Watermelon Wheat (fruit flavored wheat beer) 4.9%
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (American pale ale) 5.6%
Pacifico (American adjunct lager) 4.8%
TWILIGHT
The following beers are a little more full-bodied and complex and would work well in the early evening right before the first pitch and during the first half of the game. Some of them are relatively high in alcohol. Pale and red ales stand up well to spicy foods.
Taps
Port Midnight Sessions Lager (dark lager) 5.5%
Guinness Draught (Irish stout) 4.2%
Anchor Liberty Ale (American pale ale) 6%
Moylans Kilt Lifter Scotch Ale (Scotch ale/wee heavy) 8%
Bear Republic Red Rocket Ale (American red ale) 6.8%
Lost Abbey Devotion (Belgian-style pale ale) 6.2%
*Firestone Walker Unfiltered Double Barrel Ale (American pale ale) 5%
*Magnolia (a special cask-conditioned English ale brewed especially for Public House) probably under 5%
*The last two are hand-pumped from a cask the old-fashioned way. They’ll be low in carbonation and not as cold as beer from a regular keg.
Bottles
Orval (Belgian pale ale) 6.9%
Chimay White (Belgian tripel) 8%
Witkap Pater Singel (Belgian pale ale) 6%
Kasteel Geuze Fond 6%
Reutberger Dunkel (Munch dunkel lager) 5.3%
Wiehenstephaner Korbinian (dopplebock) 7.4%
Fullers 1845 (English strong ale) 5.9%
Samuel Smith Nut Brown Ale (English brown ale) 5%
NIGHT
These beers are heavier, darker, higher in alcohol and more suited for the late innings of night games. If you’re driving, be careful with these beers and drink some water afterward.
Taps
North Coast Old Rasputin (imperial stout) 9%
Lost Abbey Judgment Day (quadruppel) 10.5%
Deschutes Black Butte (porter) 5.2%
Stone Sublimely Self-Righteous Ale (American strong ale) 8.7%
Bottles
La Trappe Isid’or (Belgian pale ale) 7.5%
Rochefort 10 (quadruppel) 11.3%
Westmalle Trappist Tripel (Belgian tripel) 9.5%
Trappist Achel 8° Brune (Belgian dubbel) 9.5%
Rodenbach Grand Cru (Flanders red ale) 6%
Public House
24 Willie Mays Plaza
San Francisco, CA 94107
415.644.0240
No reservations
Play ball: Craft beer comes to AT&T with Public House
Baseball and beer share a cherished and, for the most part, an amicable history. The exception was the ill-fated ten cent beer night the Cleveland Indians scheduled against the Texas Rangers in 1974. “America may need a good five cent cigar,” observed American League President Lee McPhail after the ensuing insanity, “but it doesn’t need ten cent beer.”
The Cleveland beer riot notwithstanding, beer is woven into the fabric of professional baseball. Milwaukee’s team is known as the Brewers, and the Colorado Rockies, St. Louis Cardinals and Brewers all play in stadiums named for beer company sponsors. And it’s no wonder. Ballparks sell a lot of beer, most of which is made by the same giant brewers that advertise all over the parks and during commercials in televised games. But like a growing number of restaurants and pubs, major league ballparks are acknowledging that there’s money to be made selling beer to more discerning drinkers.
As microbreweries become more established across the country, ballparks are tapping into local and regional beer. Philly fans get Troegs, Flying Fish and Victory beer; in the Midwest, Indian fans can drink Great Lakes, Harpoon IPA and Goose Island. The baseball gods have not smiled on San Diego of late, but thanks to the area’s rich microbrew culture, Padres fans can drown their sorrow in Stone Pale Ale, Levitation and IPA; Firestone-Walker; Red Hook Swim Chance; Ballast Point Yellowtail Pale Ale and Big Eye IPA; Alaskan IPA; Rogue Dead Guy Ale; Deschutes Black Butte Porter; Green Flash IPA; Widmer Drifter Pale Ale and Anderson Valley Boont Amber, among others.
Sadly, Giant fans have been poorly served by a bush league lineup of overpriced, underperforming “craft” beers poured out of bottles at remote outposts scattered around the park.
With the opening of Public House, Giants fans might finally have the beer to match the majesty of the park. Public House, along with the adjoining Mijita restaurant, has replaced the Acme Chop House this season. Public House has about two dozen taps, most of them representative of West Coast brewing stalwarts like Bear Republic, Moylans, Marin Brewing, Firestone-Walker, Port, Stone, Deschutes and Valley Brewing. The pub also has a couple cask-conditioned ales, including an unfiltered Double Barrel Ale from Firestone Walker in Paso Robles and a cask-conditioned English-style ale from Magnolia in the Haight.
Interesting bottles include Belgian beers such as Rodenbach Grand Cru and Westmalle Tripel, and German beers like Weihenstephan Korbinian, from what’s reputed to be the oldest brewery in the world.
This is all well and good for a pregame beer, but what really separates Public House from the other pubs in the neighborhood is the turnstile that leads into the park from the bar. That turnstile magically transforms ordinary pub beer into ballpark beer that you can enjoy while you watch the game.
Here’s how it’s done.
When you order your beer (or any other alcoholic beverage) make sure to have it poured into a plastic cup, since you can’t bring glass into the park. Carefully tote your beer or two (taking a sip if necessary to avoid spillage) to the turnstile/doorway in the back of the Public House, which leads into AT&T Park the same way the Giants Dugout Store does. Have your ticket scanned and proceed to your seat with your beer and whatever food you want to bring in from Public House, Mijita or wherever else you buy your food.
That’s all there is to it. While your neighbors are draining blue bottles of crappy Bud, you can savor a craft beer fresh from a tap.
But that’s not the end of the story. You can also exit the park, duck back inside Public House and return with another craft beer. You’ll need to have your hand stamped when you exit the park and have your ticket with you.
The quickest way out of the park and into Public House is probably via the steps behind the center field bleachers. If you want to maintain contact with the action as long as possible, you can stroll through the arcade or around the lower deck seats until you reach the exit at Second Street and King, then duck into Public House for your beer. Armed with your beer, head for the turnstile again and show the ticket taker your ticket and stamp, and presto, you’re back in the park with a craft beer that is typically not only cheaper than what you can buy in the park, but infinitely tastier. Moreover, you might be able to return to your seat faster than if you were waiting in line for a Miller Lite.
In our next post, we’ll provide a scouting report for the beers currently available at Public House and suggest how to best enjoy them.
Public House alert:
Magnolia brewer, David McLean, has created a cask ale just for Public House!
We will be tapping it for the first time on Wednesday, April 7 at 5pm. Come join us to celebrate and try out this exclusive ale paired with some of our favorite menu items.
Public House
24 Willie Mays Plaza
San Francisco, CA 94107
415.644.0240
No reservations
The Cleveland beer riot notwithstanding, beer is woven into the fabric of professional baseball. Milwaukee’s team is known as the Brewers, and the Colorado Rockies, St. Louis Cardinals and Brewers all play in stadiums named for beer company sponsors. And it’s no wonder. Ballparks sell a lot of beer, most of which is made by the same giant brewers that advertise all over the parks and during commercials in televised games. But like a growing number of restaurants and pubs, major league ballparks are acknowledging that there’s money to be made selling beer to more discerning drinkers.
As microbreweries become more established across the country, ballparks are tapping into local and regional beer. Philly fans get Troegs, Flying Fish and Victory beer; in the Midwest, Indian fans can drink Great Lakes, Harpoon IPA and Goose Island. The baseball gods have not smiled on San Diego of late, but thanks to the area’s rich microbrew culture, Padres fans can drown their sorrow in Stone Pale Ale, Levitation and IPA; Firestone-Walker; Red Hook Swim Chance; Ballast Point Yellowtail Pale Ale and Big Eye IPA; Alaskan IPA; Rogue Dead Guy Ale; Deschutes Black Butte Porter; Green Flash IPA; Widmer Drifter Pale Ale and Anderson Valley Boont Amber, among others.
Sadly, Giant fans have been poorly served by a bush league lineup of overpriced, underperforming “craft” beers poured out of bottles at remote outposts scattered around the park.
With the opening of Public House, Giants fans might finally have the beer to match the majesty of the park. Public House, along with the adjoining Mijita restaurant, has replaced the Acme Chop House this season. Public House has about two dozen taps, most of them representative of West Coast brewing stalwarts like Bear Republic, Moylans, Marin Brewing, Firestone-Walker, Port, Stone, Deschutes and Valley Brewing. The pub also has a couple cask-conditioned ales, including an unfiltered Double Barrel Ale from Firestone Walker in Paso Robles and a cask-conditioned English-style ale from Magnolia in the Haight.
Interesting bottles include Belgian beers such as Rodenbach Grand Cru and Westmalle Tripel, and German beers like Weihenstephan Korbinian, from what’s reputed to be the oldest brewery in the world.
This is all well and good for a pregame beer, but what really separates Public House from the other pubs in the neighborhood is the turnstile that leads into the park from the bar. That turnstile magically transforms ordinary pub beer into ballpark beer that you can enjoy while you watch the game.
Here’s how it’s done.
When you order your beer (or any other alcoholic beverage) make sure to have it poured into a plastic cup, since you can’t bring glass into the park. Carefully tote your beer or two (taking a sip if necessary to avoid spillage) to the turnstile/doorway in the back of the Public House, which leads into AT&T Park the same way the Giants Dugout Store does. Have your ticket scanned and proceed to your seat with your beer and whatever food you want to bring in from Public House, Mijita or wherever else you buy your food.
That’s all there is to it. While your neighbors are draining blue bottles of crappy Bud, you can savor a craft beer fresh from a tap.
But that’s not the end of the story. You can also exit the park, duck back inside Public House and return with another craft beer. You’ll need to have your hand stamped when you exit the park and have your ticket with you.
The quickest way out of the park and into Public House is probably via the steps behind the center field bleachers. If you want to maintain contact with the action as long as possible, you can stroll through the arcade or around the lower deck seats until you reach the exit at Second Street and King, then duck into Public House for your beer. Armed with your beer, head for the turnstile again and show the ticket taker your ticket and stamp, and presto, you’re back in the park with a craft beer that is typically not only cheaper than what you can buy in the park, but infinitely tastier. Moreover, you might be able to return to your seat faster than if you were waiting in line for a Miller Lite.
In our next post, we’ll provide a scouting report for the beers currently available at Public House and suggest how to best enjoy them.
Public House alert:
Magnolia brewer, David McLean, has created a cask ale just for Public House!
We will be tapping it for the first time on Wednesday, April 7 at 5pm. Come join us to celebrate and try out this exclusive ale paired with some of our favorite menu items.
Public House
24 Willie Mays Plaza
San Francisco, CA 94107
415.644.0240
No reservations
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