Broken Record, a relatively new restaurant in the Excelsior District in San Francisco, shows just how much a small restaurant can achieve with talented, imaginative chefs, an urban chic ambience and a handful of well-selected taps.
Formerly a Mexican restaurant called Mom is Cooking, the 7-month-old Broken Record seems out of place on Geneva Ave.; it feels as if it belongs in the Haight or amid the gastropubs on 16th Street in the Mission.
Broken Record is happily devoid of the pretensions and attitude that can plague pseudo-hip restaurants and pubs in the “cooler” neighborhoods, however, and it makes up in personality, charm and flavor what it lacks in amenities. Instead of menus, the few food choices are listed in the backroom restaurant. Service is rudimentary but friendly and courteous: You order drinks in the front of the restaurant at the bar and place your food order in the back. There’s a pool table and juke box in the bar section, but the music is more muted in the restaurant, where a large flat-screen TV (which was playing a kung-fu movie with the sound off) looms over a few booths and tables.
The kitchen is opposite the screen and is arguably more entertaining than the movie. The sparse, eclectic menu is a far cry from typical pub grub fare. Appetizers included crispy broccoli with chili flakes and parmesan and mac ‘n cheese made with bowtie rather than elbow noodles and topped with crispy corn bread (with or without bacon). They were both well-matched with a delicious pint of Green Flash IPA from San Diego
According to our friendly server, who also manned the kitchen and took our order, Broken Record’s extraordinary burger is made using brisket, aged cheese and bacon from Zoe in Petaluma (the optional avocado is highly recommended). Each bite of the perfectly cooked burger in a toasted bun was like a symphony of flavors that were further enhanced by a pint of Pranqster, a Belgian-style strong ale from North Coast Brewing in Ukiah. Pranqster was also refreshing complementing the Crispy Tiger Shrimp sandwich, served with crab mayo and avocado on a fresh baguette.
Other options included pulled pork with cole slaw and spicy mayo; roasted Portobello mushroom with mozzarella, roasted red peppers, balsamic aioli and fresh basil; bacon French fries; duck confit potato skins; buttermilk biscuit; and chicken wings. The menu seems to rotate frequently.
We could not resist the dessert waffle: a crispy Belgian waffle served with a scoop of home-made roasted banana ice cream, drizzled with Nutella and sprinkled with powder sugar. Bliss.
The menu isn’t extensive and neither are the taps, but they don’t have to be when they’re as intelligently thought out and as well executed as they are at Broken Record. The two cooks and bartender who staffed Broken Record also belie the notion that you have to be aloof to be cool. They all seemed genuinely concerned that patrons have a good experience and sincerely grateful for their business and their compliments, of which there were many.
Broken Record
1166 Geneva Ave
(between Edinburgh St & Naples St)
San Francisco, CA 94112
(415) 963-171
CASH ONLY
Restaurant hours:
Sunday 6pm - 10pm
Monday-Saturday 6pm - 11pm
Bar hours:
Mon-Thu. 5pm - 12am
Fri-Sat. 5pm - 2am
Sun. 5pm - 12am
www.brokenrecordsf.com
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